Mixed Feelings Dazed Thoughts: Of Begums, Bourbons and Bhopal

Sadar Manzil ( 1909 and now)

Less than 24 hrs in the city of lakes. On my way to the hotel from airport, I noticed a few old facades and even with a fading sun, decided to launch my heritage expedition by myself. An old pic on the hotel wall Lord Minto attending an event at Sadar Manzil acted as catalyst. I also realized that most of these buildings are built in form of a quadrangle around Iqbal Maidan, also poularly known as Khirniwala Maidan. The name derives from a Khirni tree which still stands in the ground, albeit a bit uprooted. The maidan served as the Diwan-e-Aam of the Royal Court of erstwhile State of Bhopal. Later, the Maidan was named after the poet and scholar Muhammad Iqbal, who wrote ‘Sare Jahan Se Achha Hindustan Humara’. Iqbal visited Bhopal on multiple occasions between 1931-36 and composed several famous works during his six month stay in Bhopal at one point of time. Tarane-Hind of Iqbal is engraved on the original platform of Iqbal Maidan.

Begums of Bhopal (1819-1926)

The most glorious phase of Bhopal's history was heralded by the Begums who ruled the city for over a hundred years. The Begums were great reformists and patrons of education, art, culture and public works. They built several great monuments, which still stand as testaments to the city's glorious past. One of the easiest ways to understand the history of Bhopal is to acknowledge the contributions made by each of these noblewomen.

Gauhar Mahal-2

Gauhar Mahal-1

Qudsia Begum (1819-37), the first female ruler of Bhopal, came to power at the young age of eighteen. She built the elegant Jama Masjid and the Gohar Mahal Palace. Qudsia Begum chose this vantage point along the road that circles the Upper Lake, to build her first-ever castle between 1819 and 1837. It serves as a magnificent historical sentinel, bearing witness to the splendors of Bhopal's renowned royal families. It is a fusion of Hindu and Mughal architectural traditions, covering an area of approximately 4.65 acres.

She was succeeded by her daughter, Sikander Begum (1844-68), who had great administrative ability. She brought about various reforms, such as providing proper roads, lighting, and opening schools and madrasas. She built the beautiful Moti Masjid, Moti Mahal and Shaukat Mahal.

Moti Mahal, Bhopal

Her successor, Shah Jahan Begum (1868-1901) was a great patron of the arts - music, poetry, painting and architecture. She authored several books in Urdu, and also carried out the first-ever compilation of the history of Bhopal in a book called Tajul Iqbal. A great administrator, she gave the city its waterworks, hospitals, postal system, printing presses, newspaper and railway service. She also left an indelible mark by building several beautiful structures, such as the Taj Mahal Palace, Taj-ul-Masjid, Sadar Manzil and Barah Mahal.

Sadar Manzil

Taj Ul Masjid

The last in the line of the great Begums was Sultan Jahan Begum (1901-1926). She was a champion of women's education and employment. She authored several books and became the first Chancellor of the Aligarh Muslim University. She encouraged arts and handicrafts through annual fairs, thus also creating employment for women. The notable structures to her credit are Qaser-e-Sultani Palace, which now houses the Saifia College, Noor-us-Sabah Palace, which is now a heritage hotel, Kushabhau Thakre Hall (Minto Hall), which housed the Madhya Pradesh Vidhan Sabha till 1996, the Edward Museum and Hamidia Library. It was a sheer coincidence, and a pleasurable one that my official meeting was scheduled at this beautiful palace.

Kushabhai Thakre Hall (Minto Hall)

This piece would be incomplete if I fail to mention two other noteworthy finds- namely Taj Mahal Palace and Shaukat Mahal-Zeenat Manzil complex.

Taj Mahal Palace

The Taj Mahal at Bhopal was built as the Sultan Shah Jahan Begum's residence, at a cost of ₹ 3,000,000. Its construction spanned over a period of 13 years, from 1871 to 1884. It was one of the largest palaces of the world built at that time. The building was originally named Raj Mahal ("royal palace"). The British Resident at Bhopal, highly impressed with the architecture, suggested that the palace be renamed the Taj Mahal, the Taj Mahal at Agra having been built by the Begum's namesake Shah Jahan. The begum accepted the suggestion and the palace was renamed to Taj Mahal. The Begum is said to have ordered a three-year-long celebration called Jashn-e-Taj Mahal after the completion of the building. (wikipedia). I couldn't get an opportunity to visit the premises (as the heritage building has now been de-notified by the state government and is now under renovation as a heritage hotel) but the façade itself indicates how grand the entire complex must have been in its heyday.

Shaukat Mahal Complex today.. Nearby Zeenat Manzil (right) had been demolished earlier.

And to conclude on an even more interesting note, delving into the history of Shaukat Mahal, one learns Shaukat Mahal (built in 1830) is an architectural curiosity. "Shaukat Mahal was constructed in the 1830s as a wedding gift for Sikander Jehan Begum, the first full-fledged female ruler of Bhopal. It is an integral part of the famous royal quadrangle of Bhopal around the Iqbal Maidan. Architecturally it is a bit of an oddity compared to other buildings in the heart of Bhopal, the building has many western elements combining both Post Renaissance and Gothic styles. This is due to the design being attributed to the Bourbons of Bhopal, widely considered to be descendants of renowned French kings." The claim of link by Bourbons of Bhopal to the Bourbons of France was endorsed by Prince Michael of Greece in his historical novel, Le Rajah Bourbon (Michel de Grèce 2007).

The visit though short was a truly memorable one. I left with curiosities and a desire to revisit soon. Meanwhile, a few snapshots will remind me of the immense history these silent buildings have witnessed.